Trekking the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal- [The Ultimate backpacker's guide]

Annapurna circuit is known as the most favored trekking destination for its breathtaking views and trekking adventure for the tourists and wanderlust enthusiasts due to a spellbinding combination of mesmerizing landscapes, the mighty Annapurna ranges and different flora and fauna.

Trekking the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal

Found within central Nepal; Annapurna mountain area is perfect for both amateur and seasoned trekkers. Apart from different cultures, one can get to experience varying climatic changes and cultural variety from Hindu villages at the low foothills to the Tibetan culture of Manang Valley and lower Mustang right from 800m asl to the artic 5416m asl at the Thorong La pass. The total length of the circuit comes at the range between 160km to 230km.

The circuit is mentioned as a tea house trek as you end up staying in many different tea houses along the way.

Most tourists book for private trekking agencies where they end up paying a lot of money which goes up to $2000 in order to experience a 16-day adventure of side trails that gives you breathtaking views of Annapurna circuit.

It is generally advised that once you arrive at Thamel which is close to Kathmandu Airport. You will find tons of trekking agencies that could be bargained at a good price in the range of $800 to $1500. You could also get to purchase trekking gears at cheap prices and you can even haggle a bit.

Permits for the Annapurna Circuit

You need to ensure that you have to have two permits before you go for hiking. The Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) and Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS) cards. Both permits are required for entering the Annapurna conservation area and you will need to check in at several checkpoints along the circuit.

Road Construction in the Region

The circuit is traditionally followed on an anti-clockwise trail that circumvents the Annapurna Massif, taking trekkers through the Annapurna, Manang and Mustang region of central Nepal.

The government have over the past decade have been investing for the construction of roads on both the east and the west side of the circuit, joining Chame - Manang in the East and Pokhara - Muktinath in the West. The west side of the Annapurna Circuit has a larger impact which ends up giving an unpleasant trekking experience for the enthusiasts due to dust the thrown up by vehicles and various construction projects en route. Many trekkers decide to cut their trek short just after Muktinath because of this unpleasant experience. The road has allowed the journey to be completed in 11 days so its good news for people in a hurry.

 The Traditional Route Map

The trip starts from Besisahar and passes thru the districts of Lamjung, Manang, Mustang and Myagdi, ending at Nayapul".  This can take about 10 to 15 days depending on the mode of travel as well as one’s fitness.

1. Kathmandu to Besisahar

 It is about 7-hour long bus journey from Kathmandu to Besisahar. You will need to surpass heavy traffic as more and more people are coming from various countries to experience the breathtaking beauty of the Annapurna Circuit. As you travel to Besisahar you can find the bustling towns slowly transforming into small, quiet and peaceful villages. Besisahar stands at 800m above the ground.

2. Besisahar to Bhulbhule

Once you reach Besisahar, you get to see tropical forest which is filled with abundant vegetation. Bhulbhule is famous for its long bridge and also an iconic place for clicking good pictures. The best time is to come during October through November and mid-March to mid-April. The most interesting attraction on the way to get to see a high waterfall in Nadi, where you can also meet a bunch of monkeys so you don't miss the chance to take your camera out with you. It would be an injustice to miss out Marsyangdi River which is a beautiful path that gets to show you the natural scenery.

3. Bhulbhule to Jagat

As you leave Besisahar you go along with the mountains as you’ll find yourself 840m above the ground surrounded by birds chirping finding yourself in peace. On the way, you get to see tea houses. Keep the water bottle with you as water gets slowly expensive as you walk uphill. You’ll get to pass by many bridges so be prepared for breath-taking views!

4. Jagat to Tal

From Jagat, you have arrived at 1300 m. There are hostels and tea houses around if you want to take some rest and refresh yourself up. Be prepared to lust your eyes looking at beautiful waterfalls gushing down the stream and abundant variety of flora and fauna. You can get to feel the climate slowly changing or being different so prepare yourself to experience variety of climatic changes. As you walk by and get to talk with locals so that you get to make great friends there. You need to trek steep rocky stairs in order to reach Temang.

5. Temang to Dhukur Pokhari

Temang is located at 2400 m and there are 4 bridges which you need to cross as you go towards Thorang La Pass. 

This is the beginning point where you get to experience small bits of snowfall!. Rhododendron trees bloom in these parts with pink, red, and yellow flowers.

As you trek you will find out a trail beyond Bhratang that was carved out of a vertical rock, for more than 20 years, high above the Marsyangdi River. Keep in mind that crossing with a caravan supported by mule can be a dangerous experience. By now it is just people walking on this trail but soon the jeeps will be seen taking this route due to road constructions taking place.

On the other side of the river, the authorities have built an excellent trekkers’ trail that bypasses this carved road. 

As you pass after Bhratang please ensure that you take the red/white marked trail that will go down towards the river and cross on a beautiful wooden bridge. Keep following the gentle trail and take a spectacular view of the carved road stretch on the other side of the river. 

You shouldn’t miss it! After some time, the trail drives down to the river again and you will cross the Marsyangdi Khola through two wooden bridges. You just need to climb up so that you reach the road and turn towards left.

6. Dhukur Pokhari to Bhraka

Just before Manang, you can see a beautiful village called Bhraka which is built in Tibetan style. It is definitely a place worth going a few dozen meters down from the main path and passing through an interesting little hamlet. One can easily imagine that how men once used to live there. All Tibetan style houses are typically having a flat roofline, which is usually used to dry the crop or yak dung for heating purposes. As you look at their group of houses from a distance it gives you the impression as if the housetops grew other houses.

7. Bhraka to Yak Karka

You can find so many yaks in this area which gives it a correct name Karka. Now Karka is a very common Nepali name which can be translated as “meadow “. There are so many Yak Karkas in Nepal, but you can find only one in Manang so you won’t get yourself lost there.


You will get to taste Yak burgers and Yak cheese with macaroni that gives your tummy a fulfilling appetite but for the vegetarians, there is good news; you only have to pay once for Dhal Bhaat and can ask them for another plate which is for free. Dal is a lentil soup. 
In Nepal, it's often thin and more of a soupy consistency than a curry. Bhat is a type of starch that means rice and can also mean another form of starch when there is no rice. Dhal Bhaat is a widely eaten staple meal of Nepal.

8. Yak Karka to Thorong Phedi

The path from Yak Kharka starts to rise slowly to Thorong Phedi 4538 m (also known as Thorung Phedi). As you look up at the clouds you feel that they are just 500 m above you since you’re heading to one of the most memorable moments of your life; the highest point of Annapurna Circuit. 

As you walk by you’ll be surrounded by the mountains slightly above you and below you which is one of the greatest feelings ever as you get to experience it. At Thorong Phedi you get to see so many people getting themselves ready in the early morning to get to reach Thorong La Pass.

9. Thorong Phedi

It’s the route through which you would need to pass in order to reach Thorang La Pass. Thorang La Pass is the highest point of trekking and probably the most coveted destination in the whole trek. Thorong Phedi has an altitude of 4500 m. The pass is located on a trail which gets to establish a connection between the village of Manang in the Manang District to the east and the temple of Muktinath in the Mustang District to the west.

10. Thorang La Pass

So what it is like to reach the highest point of Annapurna Circuit?

This is the highest point which is both scary and equally beautiful for the backpackers, also known as a place for thin air.

As you pass this area your life is simplified for a month and you learn to appreciate the necessities - food, water, friends, and air.

At the end of the day, to cross over Thorong La Pass is both the highlight and the biggest challenge of completing the Annapurna Circuit. The pass is the highest point at 5,416m (17,769 ft) is higher than Everest Base Camp (5,380 m). the Thorang-La is one of the widest passes in the world. The trek between Manang and Thorang La is one of the most beautiful parts of the Annapurna Circuit with majestic views on the way up of Gangapurna, Annapurna III, and Chulu West.

11. Ranipauwa to Kagbeni

Ranipauwa is a small town that is famous for its numerous hotels, guesthouses, cafes, restaurants, and souvenir-shops as a stop-over for both Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims from all over the world. As you trek clockwise, Ranipauwa is the last port of call before you get to cross the Thorong-La-pass. The town is not much of an attraction as you get to see very few traditional buildings that are lessened by a large number of modern concrete-built hotels and other touristic buildings. Electricity is not much reliable so it’s a bad news for someone that wants to keep their power bank recharged.

Kagbeni is a place which is famous for its goats which is located at 2800 m. There is a saying that if you can’t make it to Tibet then go to Kagbeni. Kagbeni is two hours walk from Jomsom, that is if you are deciding to go clockwise, and can also be reached via jeep, truck or motorbike. The village is designed as a fortress town and was quite important traditional salt trade route between Tibet and Nepal.

12. Kagbeni to Jomsong

When people reach Jomsong they decide to end their trekking expedition as due to the roads being built in Muktinath to Pokhara in the West which produces so much of dust as jeeps pass by. But it is advised to keep following the old route by walking down so that you won’t end up missing Tatopani. Tatopani (the word literally means ‘hot water’). Tatopani is a natural hot spring where you can soak yourself in, relax and have a cup of tea to celebrate. Later, you can celebrate even more once you reach to Pokhara.

13. Jomsong to Pokhara

Pokhara is the finishing point of the circuit where you can find a domestic airport which takes you to Kathmandu Airport within 30 mins. It is located at 820 m above the ground. Then we take a trip to Marpha which is the place where you get to see so many apples. Once you reach Marpha, the pies are considered to be the very best in Nepal, so you need more of that keep yourself energized as you come to end the journey. Not only apples but apricots. Annapurna Circuit is also known as Apple Pie Circuit due to an abundant variety of apples present in there.

With a delicious yet limited choice of mouth savory food such as fritters, crumbles, and momos that feature in every teahouse, we can say that this is a town that gives its preference for apples. It is so much apple love that even the backpackers prefer staying at the teahouses based on the taste of apple pie!

The ideal time to Trek

Annapurna circuit is regarded by many as the best trek in the world. It gets an influx of tourists in trekking seasons with about 200 people on the trail almost every day.
October to November is the hiking season in Nepal, where the trail is replenished by the monsoon and with winter kicking in; the weather is perfect.

Traveling at the end of November and early December will help you avoid most of the crowds. December brings snow to the upper reaches and the landscape transforms into mystical white.

Avoid trekking in the monsoon though, the mountains are always cloud covered in this time of the year.

Internet and Electricity on the Annapurna Circuit

Like everything on the High mountains internet is pretty unreliable in the tea houses and when it is available; connections are dead slow.

Electricity is available in most tea houses however they might demand extra money for charging your equipment.

Tea houses on the Circuit

Since this is a popular trail, most tea houses are well equipped and you can actually get a good night out of the most basic ones. The cost varies from season to season and people usually let trekkers stay for free it the promise to have food from the tea house.
They always have basic facilities. Rooms are equipped to hold two people and are properly insulated in the lower reaches. As the altitude increases the rooms become bare bones to some extent.

The rates for food and beverages are mostly standardized across all tea house and a wide range of delicacies are available in the food menu. Yak Burgers, Pizzas, Pasta and pancakes are available but the local Dhal Bhaat is the most popular offering.

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